What Lies Beneath
The Las Vegas façade is so well known for its bright lights and spangles that even locals sometimes have to blink twice before they can see the real-life vibrancy that lies beneath. If the classic Strip isn’t the definition of kitsch, who knows what is? The newest trend in Vegas, however, is far from cheesy. Its most recent love affair is a breathless passion for culture, big-time Vegas-style.
This new appreciation of all things cultural isn’t just superficial, either. Real Picassos line the wall of the upscale restaurant, Picasso. The Gallery at the Bellagio recently featured a Faberge exhibition while old world masters from Reuben to Jan van Eyck graced the walls of the Guggenheim Hermitage museum. The Winn Collection is housed in the deserted Desert Inn and even the local Las Vegas Art Museum attracted record visitors with its Portrait of Washington.
Vegas-based MRC Group Research Institute estimates that of the 36-million visitors who come here each year, over seven million plan to include a visit to an art museum or gallery. “Bringing in big shows and established museums created an awareness of fine art [in Las Vegas] and showed how entertaining art is,” says Tim Quillan, president of Nevada Arts Advocates.
Perhaps even more encouraging for local and visiting arts lovers, more modest strides are also being made. Local artists and galleries are gaining a steady local clientele. That means artists can afford to produce art and galleries can stay in business.
A Las Vegas arts tour should start with a first-class pair of walking shoes and a high-quality map of the city. While you can gallery hop to your heart’s content right on the strip, to capture the exciting emerging artists scene, plan to do a little driving. Then, as long as you have that car anyway, take in the 1,000-year old petroglyphs at the Valley of Fire or Red Rock Canyon before driving the strip at night to see pop art at its most flamboyant.
Start your walk at Desert Passage at the Aladdin (702-736-7114), where multi-talented musicians display their wares at The GRAMMY’s Art of Music (702-313-7664). Original art, limited editions, collectables and memorabilia by luminaries in the music world including Jerry Garcia, Paul McCartney, Grace Slick, David Bowie, John Lennon. Explore environmentally-themed paintings, prints, photography, sculpture and glass at the Wyland Galleries of Las Vegas (702-699-9970), then stop by for a piece of edible art at Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland (702-866-6624). If you are ready for a full meal don’t miss Commander’s Palace’s (702-892-8272) heavenly Creole and Cajun seafood that is flown in fresh daily. Come back before bedtime for heavenly jazz at the Blue Note Jazz Club (702-862-8307) on the corner of Harmon and Las Vegas Blvd.
Le Boulevard at Paris (3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-946-7000) is hard to beat as a lunch stop. Take advantage of the pastry or streetside crepes shops along the cobblestone path, then duck over to Re Galleries/Atelier (702-792-2278) to watch an antique 8-ton, Marioni flatbed lithography printing press make gorgeous turn-of-the-century style posters. Le Paradis Fine Jewelery (702-892-8220) carries fine jewelry and crystal bangles; L’Art De Paris (702-946-7000) features original and reproductions of paintings and dolls. If this is one of your last stops, don’t forgo Mon Ami Gabi (702-944-4224) the absolute best place to enjoy an evening open-air meal. The French onion soup is fabulous and the view across the street of the dancing waters of the Bellagio makes this one of the most romantic places in town.
VIA Bellagio (3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; (702-693-7111) scatters art everywhere. d. Fine Men’s Store (702-693-7927) carries glass art by international artists as well as fine men’s clothes. When Dale Chihuly decided to open a retail shop, he picked Vegas. Although small, Chihuly at Bellagio (702-693-7995), located at the far end of the spectacular garden Conservatory, features studio and original edition pieces, lithographs, original drawings by Chihuly, and vitreographs. “It is incredible,” says gallery manager Gary Lunn, “We are doing double what we thought we would be doing. People from all over the world come here and we have shipped to almost every country that I can think of.” Next door, the Botanical Garden (702-693-7950) tin toys, pressed-flower picture frames, glass flowers and hummingbird feeders.
The Appian Way at Caesars Palace (3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-731-7110) sports a full-size replica of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, David, who watches over the imported marble corridors. Visit Cottura (702-731-7110) for hand-painted Italian ceramics, china, pottery, busts and pasta-sized bowls. Then step into Gallerie Michelangelo (702-796-5001) to saunter amongst life-size contemporary and art deco sculpture, original paintings, porcelain dogs, bronze eagles other decorative masterpieces produced by 54 artists.
Forum Shops at Caesars Palace (3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-893-4800) is the reigning queen of the Las Vegas mega-malls and still tops for people watching and ambiance. Filled with breathtaking reproductions of some of Italy’s most spectacular art, the store facades replicate the materials, textures and designs of an ancient Roman street circa 300 BC to AD 1700. By now, you must be get hungry. Grab an outside table at Bertolini’s (702-869-1540), located beside the Fountain of the Gods, to watch everyone in the world go by.
Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian (3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 702-414-4500) lets you follow a singing gondolier as he poles along the canal through cobblestone streets. Wandering minstrels, Italian opera singers, comedians, stilt-walkers and living statues are among the Artisti del Arte’ performers at St. Mark’s Square. Don’t miss the Bernard K Passman Galleries (702-791-3376) to discover black coral work in everything from fine jewelry to exquisite miniature sculptures. Ripa De Monti (702-733-1004) offers imported glass from Venice. Il Prato (702) 733-1201) presents in items imported from Venice including Venetian masks, porcelain dolls, period costumes, and miniatures pieces of furniture, collectible automobile miniatures and oil paintings. They also carry French music boxes and fine paper goods. Regis Galerie (702-414-3637) offers bronze pieces and Faberge eggs.
Off the strip, the Masquerade Village at the Rio (3700 West Flamingo Rd.; 702-252-7777) lets visitors get in costume to help create a floating carnival. The real draw for art lovers is the Markman Gallery (702-240-8513), the brainchild of a local artist who has paints in the back room. The gallery also features sculptures, glass, pottery, bronze and paintings. If you haven’t eaten in a while, don’t miss Rosemary’s, about four doors down, a critically acclaimed restaurant with taste sensations that you won’t find anywhere else.
Now that you are off the strip, you might was well check out the nearby artist studios. Most of these are by appointment only, so call ahead to make sure the artists are in and please, get directions. Domsky Glass Studios and Design Effects (3720 W. Oquendo Road, Suite 104, 702-616-2830) is a husband and wife team that specializes in fusion and painted glass and metal sculpture. You may not have heard of Leslie Rankin, yet, but you soon will. Rankin was recently featured in the “Modern Masters” series on Home and Garden Relevision. Rankin and her custom tiles, tabletops, sculptures and bowls can be found at Glassic Art Gallery (5850 Polaris Ave.; 702-658-7588). Former Parisian Claude Roy began Forme D’art gallery to showcase his bronze, clay and plaster sculptures, but he has begun to add artists whose work also intrigues him. Vignettes (5460 Desert Point Drive; (702-221-8350) features original paintings and custom glass work.
The Art Encounter (3979 Spring Mountain Road; 702-227-0220) features sculpture, jewelry, pottery, bronze cast “critters” from Oregon, relief, deco women and sophisticated Picasso-esque portraits from local artist Jennifer Main and 100 other artists including Loppo Martines.
Romanza Garden Living (3545 South Decatur Blvd.; 702-596-1601) specializes in unique and fabulous outdoor art including antiques and reproductions of folk art from around the world, Grecian and Chinese terra cotta pottery and, at one point, an actual Romanian hay wagon.
Ryan Gallery (2972 S. Rainbow Blvd.; 702-368-0545) offers a wide variety of styles of international and national two- and three-dimensional works from artists from as far away as Australia and Israel.
Carrara Fine Art (1236 S. Rainbow; 702-877-4299) carries contemporary marble, alabaster, bronze and stone sculpture and art from over 100 artists including emerging and established artists such as Art Wells, Kim Barrison, Dray, Picasso and Dali.
Go to Gallery P (982 American Pacific Drive, Ste 204, Henderson, 702-568-5429) for owner/artist Joeseph Palermo’s personal favorite post modern art from his own studio as well as paintings, sculpture, drawings by15 international and local artists. “The synergy is here and artists are pouring in,” he says.
Artist and author Roy Purcell is looking for the feminine within in a series of 7×9-feet etchings tracing female mythology. Purcell Studio & Gallery (2000 Pinto Road, Henderson; 702-564-9565). One of the newest galleries is in downtown Henderson. Old Town Gallery (10 West Pacific Street, Henderson; 702.568.5655) features watercolors, photorealism, sculpture, photography, glass and jewelry from 29 local artists.
Keep up the art theme with Pasta Shop Ristorante (2495 E. Tropicana Ave.; 702-451-1893) where metalworks, wireworks, mosaics, jeweled glassware and silverware by locals artists Ann Alenik and Erin Moss are displayed. Iowa Café 300 E. Charleston Blvd., Suite 101 (702-366-1882) is a downtown eatery that offers a local sanctuary for artists and their friends as well as a Wednesday “Games Night,” and music on Friday and Saturday nights. Bootlegger Bistro, 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South (702-736-4939) is old-time Vegas as art where the owner is a former crooner who knows how to make a lounge act classy. Local entertainers, celebrities and politicians all call this place home. What Lies Beneath
If You Go
Whether coming by plane or by car, most people think of the 5-miles of Las Vegas Blvd. as Vegas. Most local guidebooks include a basic map of the casino strip that shows where each resort is in relation to the other. To venture off the strip, get a good map but realize that the city is laid out in a fairly logical manner. Las Vegas Blvd. runs north and south crossed by major roads that run for miles in either direction. Since the big roads are named after casinos, Tropicana, Flamingo, Sahara, use those to orient yourself when calling a gallery for directions.
There are dozens of websites including Vegas.com, citysearchlasvegas.com, and lv.com that carries information on places to see, but make sure you call before trekking to a gallery; websites are notoriously out of date when it comes to this kind of listing. For generic travel information contact the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Bureau (800-332-5333) or the Las Vegas Welcome Center (800-821-6624). But perhaps the easiest way is to pick up any of the free magazines and newspapers that carry comprehensive art listings such as Where Las Vegas or Neon.
Fun museums to squeeze in your visit are the Liberace Museum (1775 E. Tropicana Ave.; 702-798-5595); the Las Vegas Art Museum; (9600 W. Sahara Ave.; 702-360-8000); The Guggenheim Hermitage Museum (Venetian 702-414-2440) and the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art (702-693-7871). Donna Beam Fine Arts Gallery (University of Nevada, 4505 S. Maryland Parkway; 702-895-3893) is the gallery for local arts students that has seen a steady stream of bright young artists who are rapidly gaining international acclaim.
If you still haven’t gotten your fill of arts, try the Annual Invitational Native American Arts Festival (702-455-7955), a 3-day program in April of arts, crafts an Native American culture. May is Lei Day (702-251-5793) celebrating the Hawaiian culture with arts, crafts, food and entertainment. The holiday season brings The Evening with the Artists (702-227-0220). The first Art Las Vegas (312-587-3300), bringing in dealers and collectors from around the world, is scheduled for October.
by Lynn Goya
11-7-2003